Day 6 – Riding the Roller Coaster (part 3) – Untethered

12.1 miles / 38.5

Whiskey Hollow Shelter

Good night’s sleep in a bunk last night, although I was a little restless knowing I had a 7am shuttle ride scheduled. in the kitchen, I found the fixings for waffles Glen told me he’d put out, an upgrade from the pancakes we’ve been making. I shared what I made with Navigator, since one batch was more than I could handle.

Some of the folks over the past few days have been working with Scott and Marie, local shuttle folk (I think Scott was the caretaker at Bears Den for a while). I had reached to them for my ride this AM, but they had morning constraints due to church obligations; thus the 7am pick-up.

Scott showed right on time, 10 minutes after Navigator took to the trail. We had great conversation as we drove the 15 minutes to the Morgan Mills Road trailhead. He has thru hiked the AT twice, the first time in the ‘90’s with a 65 lb pack. He suggested I leave Maine as the last section, since it is so beautiful and provides an appropriate climax. I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. Anyway, as always there was a quick, strong connection.

And just as quickly, I was standing at the trailhead. Since I had been using Bears Den as a home-base, I could feel the disconnection, a sense of being untethered, if only for a short time. The sense of unknown, of adventure.

At first, I noticed how much the weight of the pack changed my posture, and I was much more aware of my feet, and how my shoes were struggling a little to support me. They didn’t feel quite tight enough, but I have fewer options with the speed lacings. Usually (without the full pack), they feel pretty good. It didn’t take long before the simple act of walking seemed to dial me in.

Before coming out on trail, the stories about the Roller Coaster had me concerned. This morning, I was in love with it. I got in the zone, grooving on the sun light streaming through the woods as it rose above the eastern hilltops. I started to sing as I walked, feeling the resonance with the birdsong, the sound of wind in the trees, the water trickling in the streams. That is until I started meeting people coming from the opposite direction. After that, I simply sang silently.

By 9:30, I was out of the Roller Coaster. I toasted the sign (and the Trail Maintainers) with a swig from my water bottle.

The trail meandered through wetlands, with boardwalks through the bog, the skunk cabbage huge and so green.

Shortly after that I reached the shelter at Rod Hollow (mile 4), where a large group of Indian folk had stopped for a snack on their day hike. They seemed fascinated with me and my trek and we chatted for a bit before they left. I hung there for another 15 minutes, then started on the 8.5 mile walk to the day’s end.

During the 2017 hike, I never once listened to music or audiobooks or podcasts, preferring the sounds of nature, although I had them available. This time, I’m not only prepared, I believe that listening will help me with my afternoon slump. As I got ready to leave Rod Hollow, I pulled out earbuds and queued up where I left off last with “Sacred Clowns“ by Tony Hillerman. It didn’t erase the slump, but it helped immensely. I had to pause the book every 15 minutes or so to greet NOBO hikers. The bubble is maybe 3 weeks south, but there is a steady stream of folks who started in February.

The last part of my day was walking through Sky Meadow State Park. The sky became threatening, and I took shelter a few times from showers beneath leafy vines. Did I mention Spring has sprung here? It has, big time!!

Also the temperature has been in the fifties most of the day.

The shelter took its time appearing, but I finally reached the blue blaze trail, and walked down the .3 miles. It’s a beautiful new shelter, with a decent composting toilet, and a nicely running stream for water.

When I arrived, I was angered to find the fire pit was smoldering; if there’s one rule that’s inviolate, it’s “don’t leave until you make sure your fire is cold”!! I had to make three trips to the stream before I was comfortable it was out.

Soon after I arrived three NOBO thru-hikers pulled in and claimed space in the shelter, so I wouldn’t be alone. It didn’t take long until we were talking, and I was giving them trail intelligence. I have to work harder at remembering trail names; the only one of the three that I remember is called Fortune. If I don’t open a note on my phone and write the names immediately, I forget. Anyway, it was great to have company. Since then three more have arrived and are camping.

It’s getting colder. I have texted the hostel 15 miles ahead to reserve a bed for the next two nights (temps are forecast in lower 30s. I’ll be tethered again, but the next part will be climbing into Shenandoah. There I’ll be untethered for about 100 miles…