Day 67 & 68: Zero in Manchester, Bromley Takes Me Down

Summary

July 1st and 2nd

RT 11 to Bromley Mountain summit 

NOBO mile #1653.7

Tolmann’s daily mileage 3.0

Tolmann’s total mileage 630.0

Day 67: 

Zero’ed with Two Hearted today; forecast was for severe thunderstorms, and I wanted to rest and ice my knee. The Green Mountain House Hostel provides the fixings for breakfast: eggs, pancake batter, milk, syrup; that kind of thing. Two Hearted had picked up breakfast sausage links the day before in town; by the time he and I started putting breakfast together the other four hikers had headed out to the trailhead. So I made up the pancakes while 2H fried up the sausage, then scrambled up some eggs. One of the most robust breakfasts I’ve had, especially at a hostel. Then Jeff (the hostel proprietor) took us into town so we could run some errands. My goal was to get a new water filter at the outfitters. Turned out they didn’t have what I was looking for in stock. Turned out that was ok, because I’d left my money belt back at the hostel. So there really was nothing I could do in town. I did have my phone, though, which has the Starbucks app on it, so I could get an ice coffee. 2H was looking for something he could cook up for lunch and dinner. 

Jeff came back and got us, and we spent the afternoon split between watching a film about folks hiking the Pacific Crest Trail (“Tell It OnThe Mountain”), me working on publishing blog posts, and me noodling with the guitar, while keeping the feet up and icing the knee. 

A new group of hikers began to arrive for the evening, one of which was Frog, who I met back at Upper Goose Pond Cabin (where I’d also met Floater). There was an Indian gentleman up from CT to do some day hiking, and a couple of older guys finishing up a section hike (one of whom’s trail name was Bucket List).

Some us watched the Coen Brothers’ version of True Grit (with Jeff Bridges), and just genially chatted. It was a pleasant evening. 

I spent some time during the day planning out my next few days, and, given my success with a 15 mile day climbing Stratton Mountain, figured I’d at least try for a couple more. 

With all the genial chatting, we ended up going to bed fairly late (for us): around 10pm. 

Day 68:

Jeff had baked blueberry muffins and had a pot of coffee ready when I got up, to which I added a cheese omelette and a bagel with margarine and strawberry jam. Another ample fast breaker. 

We had scheduled an 8am shuttle to the trailhead, and were pretty much on time. 

So Frog, 2H and I were dropped off, and it was time to get moving again. 

Yesterday, there had been 2016 thru-hikers doing providing Trail Magic at the trailhead, and it looked like they were still set up, but no one was manning the station (besides, I’d had a more than adequate breakfast shortly before), so I started up the trail. 2H had been checking the trail out in the guide yesterday, and told me we had quite a climb first thing. But it didn’t start hard, so I was feeling pretty good. It didn’t take 2H and Frog long to catch me up and blow on past me, but I was making decent time, and before I’d been hiking an hour, I’d reached the first shelter of the day at 2 miles. I stopped to use the privy; no one else was there. 

Now, the only thing that explains what happened next would be a freakish twist or thoughtless movement while putting my pack back on. But as I continued up the last mile to Bromley Mountain’s summit, my left shoulder blade became more and more uncomfortable. The last .3 miles the trail is on a ski slope, so it’s out in the open; basically it’s a meadow. By the time I reached the slope, I couldn’t take a deep breathe without my shoulder spasming. I dropped my pack at the top, torn between the magnificent view and concern over what was happening to my shoulder. First things first, though; I took pictures. Then I found a place to sit to get the weight off my back. Even without the pack, I was spasming. This was not good. 

I tried to do some stretches, I tried walking around, I tried sitting still. Part of me thought I could walk it off, so, I prepared to continue hiking. But as I started down the trail away from the peak, I thought about what getting further along the trail, further from the trailhead, would mean if I really needed to get help. 

I went back to the ski patrol building, took off the pack, and called Debbie. 

“I’m on top of Bromley Mountain, it’s a beautiful view, it’s a beautiful day, I think I need you to come bring me home.”

So I’m headed home, hopefully to let the chiropractor have his way with me, and then, after some rest, head back to the trail. There are more questions than answers right now. I need to be patient with myself, even though I’m mad as hell at me for letting my back get bad in the first place, and at my body for not being more resilient. 

Many, many thanks to Jeff at Green Mountain House Hostel for his hospitality and for coming out to get me from the trailhead, and letting me hang at the hostel as I wait for Debbie to come by. He has been incredibly generous, and I hope to have a chance to stay with him in the future.