Day 52: Water: beautiful and deadly 

Summary
June16th

Sages Ravine Campsite to MA RT 41

NOBO mile # 1517.0

Tolmann’s daily mileage 10.6

Tolmann’s total mileage 493.3

I’m not entirely happy with sleeping on the ground. While I was happy to wake up this morning to a rainless dawn, (and respite from developing a “rain routine” with the tent), my back is unambiguously letting me know it prefers hanging. Also, I had expectations of being able to bring the pack into the tent; I don’t think that’s gonna pan out. It does fit in the vestibule, barely. Anyway, I know that I need to give the tent a chance. I do like the leaner, lighter pack a lot!!!

So, yes, I woke to a dry dawn. I was up and doing morning chores before 6am, and on the trail by 7:30. They were still predicting morning rain, and I knew I had the Race Mountain ledges ahead, so I hoped an earlier start would give me a chance to avoid rocks in the rain. 

Sages Ravine was beautiful in the early morning; falls and pools with that wet woodsy smell. The path was typically rocky and rooty, so it was a little challenging to set a good pace. It lasted just long enough to enchant and inspire, but not so long as to frustrate. 

And then the trail went up again. The first milestone was Laurel Ridge Campsite, which I had considered as a camping option yesterday. 

I must have zoned out a bit, because the ledges came on me suddenly; the path just seemed to go over the cliff! Of course it didn’t, but it did follow the very edge of the ledge off and on for a while. All in all, I think this section went on for about a half a mile. It was open and exposed, a little terrifying and a lot awe-inspiring. Probably the most amazing sight on the trail to this point. I sat for a while, just trying to drink it in. Like the hike itself, it’s too big!

Then it was continuing to scramble on ledges to the top of Mt. Race, which didn’t have the same kind of views as the ledges, then down into the saddle to prepare for the “grueling”‘ (in the words of the guidebook) climb up Mt. Everett. It was, indeed! 

A long sustained climb, the trail maintainers had actually bolted sections of 4x4s to the ledge rock to act as steps. I trudged up, resting frequently, until it began to flatten out, and I could move at speed again. There were voices up ahead, and when I reached the footings of the old watchtower, I came a upon a school outing. Apparently there is a road and parking area that is only ten minutes from the summit of Mt. Everett. 

The kids had two adults leading them. The guy began asking questions about my hike, and the kids joined in. After a certain amount of time on the trail, it gets tiresome answering the same questions over and over. But these kids seemed so genuinely excited about the answers, it was fun talking to them.

The group left to make way for the next one, and I started down. 

The guidebook also said the trail off the summit was grueling, as well, so I was a little anxious. Turned out to be pretty easy. At the parking lot, someone had left jugs of water for thru-hikers. Some was in big, insulated worksite-type containers, so it was deliciously cold! The promised rain was beginning at this time, so I headed for the Hemlock Shelter to eat lunch under cover. 

The rest of the afternoon, it rained/drizzled on and off, which was a bit of an issue with the rock ledges. I ran into a pair of section hikers at one viewpoint. They asked if I was Tolmann. I said yes. They said the bus driver back a ways had talked about meeting me. You never know what impact you’ll have on the people you meet; keep it positive, keep it kind, stay loving. Wouldn’t it be cool if one of those kids hikes the trail someday?

After passing Powpaw and Bazinga, the rain decided it was time to be serious. And of course, this was about the time the descent from the ridge began. 

Now I had to deal with extra slick rock at the time when ledge was all there was to step on. It took fierce concentration and a whole lot of faith to navigate this section; I had to move incredibly slowly. A wrong move would hurt, and at best end my hike. Powpaw and Bazinga caught up to me at this point, so at least we weren’t facing the risk alone. I let them pass me after riskiest part. 

By the time I got below that point, I was pretty wrung out, if it’s possible to be wrung out and dripping wet at the same time. 

I had set up an over night with Jess Treat, a woman who rents out beds, and shuttles folks to the trail and resupply. I found her listed in The Guthooks App. I had called her the night before to arrange a shuttle from MA RT 41. 

The last part of the hike was easy walking over pastures. I texted Jess to let her know I was close.

Soon I was out of the rain, headed for a hot shower and a warm meal. I learned from Jess that Powpaw and Nazinga were staying with her, too. She took me out for a resupply run at Dollar General after my shower, then I met up with Powpaw and Bazinga at the barbecue place. They both had attempted thru-hikes and had some great stories. I think the section they were working on might be finishing one or both up, but I could be mixing other folks I’ve met in there. 

So it was an interesting day; experiences of sublime beauty, awe-filled vistas, and heart-pounding terror. Ending with laughter, pulled pork and orange IPA. And a soft, dry bed.