Day 12: Halfway (Ya, right.. hah)

Summary 

May 7th

Birch Run Shelter to Pine Grove Furnace State Park (Ironmaster’s Hostel)

NOBO mile #1102.3

Tom’s miles today: 9.8

Tom’s total miles: 78.6

Today was the day I walked right by the halfway sign (NOBO/SOBO mile 1095), and didn’t even see it!

Sleep last night was decent, considering the cold and wet. I made a minor adjustment to my hammock and noticed an immediate improvement in the warmth of my feet. Still, I haven’t proven out how it all works in the significant cold, so I continue to be anxious and as a result, am sleeping less soundly than I eventually hope to.

And the temperatures continue to go down day after day, with predictions of freezing temps tomorrow night.

Was drowsing 6-ish, when I heard the Boy Scouts start stirring. I got up around 6:30, and decided to pack up and eat breakfast on the trail. I’ve been playing it by ear these past two days as to where I will end my day. As I began walking today, I had a vague sense I would either camp a few miles beyond Pine Grove Furnace State Park, or stay at the Ironmaster’s Hostel right at the General Store and AT Museum. 

I also continued to have a niggling about not being able to call Junker the night before from the shelter, so as I climbed up away from Birch Run, I pulled out my phone and checked to see if I would have reception. I DID! So I had to let go of the regret that I hadn’t hiked on to the road and got picked up. The road was really very close.

After crossing the road and walking maybe two hundred yards. I saw Bubblegum standing with half of the scout troop from Birch Run. She said Meeko had hiked ahead. So Junker had pretty recently dropped them off.  

What followed was a morning of walking in a very park-like setting, with fairly well-groomed trails. The biggest obstacle today was the sheer volume of water on the trail, making it difficult to keep one’s feet dry. At times it felt, and looked, like the trail was a burbling brook. I had heard of this phenomenon before, but thought it more likely to happen during a rain storm; now I’m seeing first-hand how there is a lag time after a heavy rain while the drainage sheds all that water.

The other obstacle was the lingering spitting drizzle that we weren’t supposed to be getting, based on the forecast… it kept it cold and uncomfortable up until around noontime. 

First milestone (that I was aware of) was the traditional half-way sign. The trail length actually changes each year due to reroutings (this year it is 2190 miles; last it was something like 2189.4), but this sign doesn’t move. They actually take a picture of the sign and post it on a kiosk that moves as the trail length changes. 

Next I got to Tom’s Run Shelter, having caught up with the other half of the Boy Scout troop, as well the girl with the dog, and Meeko. I sat down to rest, finish my pop tarts and my gorp. Dixie, the pup, was very interested in my food. She’s sweet and adorable, very affectionate, and makes me miss my pup, Ernie. 

Bubblegum showed soon after that. I began asking folks what they’re daily goals were; Meeko was aiming for the James Fry shelter, and Bubblegum was going to stay at the Ironmaster’s Hostel. She confirmed that it was open, although they didn’t register folks until 5pm. That decided me; that was where I’d end up.

Sitting at the picnic table at shelter, which had no covering, it started to rain and blow yet again, very chilling. Meeko was off again, and I followed suit shortly thereafter. After the trail climbed up and away from Tom’s Run, with significant walking on running water in the trail, the character of the trail changed dramatically: from a definite piney woods feel to more lush greenery. The sun began to come out. I warmed and stopped at a seat-height boulder to take off a layer, and to eat my lunch of pepperoni, pepper-jack cheese on a tortilla. It was idyllic. 

Predictably, the afternoon soreness began to intensify, and my pace slowed as a result. The next milestone was the general store at the Pine Grove Furnace Park, where I would wait to get a bed. The next miles were slow ones, but I knew I had all afternoon to get there. 

When I got there, I saw Meeko at the general store. She had just finished a burger called “the hiker”: hamburger, avocado, egg, etc., etc. she said it was the best burger she’d had on the trail so far. Well, of course I had to have one, too. And so did the next two hikers coming in, which included Bubblegum. 

We got to talking about the “halfway sign”; I was a little snotty, “knowing” it was coming up shortly; Bubblegum said she saw it earlier in the day. I said that wasn’t possible… she showed me a picture. . . . Huh.

Later, I told the gentlemen at the AT museum about it. He’s thinking of hanging a flag on the kiosk to make it more visible. But it’s clear I didn’t see it because I was closed to seeing it. Another lesson. Learned? Maybe. The trail humbles me physically, emotionally and intellectually… 

Bubblegum and Meeko

After a while, we had maybe 10 hikers waiting for the hostel to open. Sitting around for the 3+ hours waiting for the hostel to open gave us time to have some coffee, to check out the AT museum, eatsome ice cream, to share pictures of our pets (Dixie’s mom showed up again)… Of the 10 or so of us, one had actually taken on the Half-gallon Challenge: eat a half-gallon of ice cream in one sitting. He was successful.

 The AT Museum

Meeko eventually decided not to hike on, and is staying here, too. Most folks are unprepared for the cold, so we’re huddled here for tonight, many looking for a way to avoid being out in the cold tomorrow night, as well, while still making their miles. It seems there are three options: the 10 mile option to Mount Holly Springs , which Bubblegum and I are doing; the 20 mile, which brings folks to Boiling Springs and a $110 bed and breakfast, which no one is doing; and a 27 mile to Carlisle, which seems attractive to quite a few folks who are doing long miles. 
<geek aside: there’s someone in the dining room whistling Princess Leia’s theme from the original Star Wars. That someone actually knows the tune well enough to whistle it is one thing, but is it more astounding that I would recognize it?>

Got to call it a night and prepare for the next 10 miler!!