4.1 miles / 57.5
Mountain Home B&B
I spent the night upstairs in the outbuilding called the “Cabbin” (sic); I’m not sure what the reason for the mis-spelling is…
Trigger warning – There were two other hikers sharing the room, one whose trail name is “Stats” and the other didn’t give his name. I was uncomfortable with the second guy, since he was wearing a Trump hat, and he was acting annoyed that the hostel caretakers wouldn’t let him wear it in the hostel. He seemed eager to come across as easy to be with. I ruminated on whether to explain to him that I do, and others may, perceive his wearing the hat as a statement of intolerance of my point-of-view, a kind of “FU if you don’t agree” statement. Then I decided I didn’t have the energy to get into it. Why would anyone intentionally walk around like that? Still, I worked on being open to him outside his political views. <sigh>
Discussion of politics are generally avoided on trail, unless one gets to know the other over a longer time. I remember having a long deep discussion with Tilly and Hops in Palmerston PA about the morality of the Vietnam War. This was pretty long into our relationship as a “tramily”. /Trigger warning
Over breakfast I talked with Stats, and a gentleman named Walt who uses the B&B as a base from which he works. It is particularly known for its breakfasts, and mine was awesome: blueberry pancakes and a plate of mixed fruit and excellent coffee.
While I was eating, Lisa suggested I might want to slack pack from the northern Shenandoah park backcountry permit station back to the hostel. Thus, my zero was magically transformed into a slack pack of a little more than 4 miles. This means my day will be slightly shorter and easier tomorrow.
Lisa dropped me at a trailhead for a blue blaze that climbed for 15-20 minutes before intersecting with the AT. I’ll be dropped at the same trailhead tomorrow, and have to redo that climb with my pack, but that’s nothing compared with climbing the 4 miles from the bottom.
Since the box that one puts their permit in is north of the blue blaze intersection, Lisa advised me to fill out the backcountry permit today, otherwise I’d need to retrace my steps tomorrow. Unfortunately, there were no blank permit forms in the box. I used a piece of note paper to write the pertinent info, and took a photo on my phone. I hope that works if someone wants proof that I’ve registered.
Immediately after the permit box, was a rocky scramble with a decent view, then the now familiar pattern of switchbacks descending what feels like forever. There was a shelter a little way down to break up the hypnotic nature of the trail where I took a short water and snack break.
Originally I was under the impression that this was a 6 mile stretch, but after a little research I could tell it would be a shorter time to get back down. I began to make plans for a leisurely afternoon of blog writing and resting, with a quick town trip to do my first resupply.
I began to notice some pain in my left shin, reminiscent of what I called shin splints back in 2017. I hoped that walking with no pack would loosen up the tightness, but whereas it didn’t flare into a problem, it never eased, either. So that’s going to provide a little dramatic tension to the story. We’ll keep an eye on that.
In short order, I was coming back to rt 522, and to the hostel.
Something I didn’t mention in yesterday’s blog was that when I checked in, a woman going by “Short Ribs” was already set up downstairs in the Cabbin, and she had ordered a pizza to be delivered for supper. When it arrived, it was huge! She was very willing to share, so I had a pre-supper supper. When I got back from town she said she’d leave it in the fridge for me for today.
So when I got back, I grabbed a couple of slices and went to sit on the patio of the main house, intending to eat and catch up with the blog. Then Scott (the other caretaker) came by to see if I wanted to do a town run. Figuring I could do it quickly and get back to rest my shin, I took him up on it.
Thus began a much longer excursion than I intended. There were four different stores I needed to go to spread at the edge of walking distance. Groceries (obviously), outdoor store (to replace misplaced titanium long-handled spoon), auto parts (for Heat (alcohol for my stove), CVS (replace broken reading glasses), ending at Starbucks (for ice coffee).
Feeling successful, if a bit overdone, I tried calling the hostel again for a ride back. Why would I expect that to work this time when I couldn’t last evening? <sigh>
Lisa had sent me a photo through text earlier, so I texted her to let her know I still couldn’t call. No response. Eventually, I decided to catch the infrequent town trolley, which would get me to the AT trailhead, from which I could walk. Turned out that the trolley ride would take an hour, wandering all over Front Royal. What an adventure!! Oh and I had to throw away half of my trente ice coffee, cuz they wouldn’t allow it on the bus. Aaargh! That was almost enough to make me lose it!
Anyway, all’s well that ends with reheated pizza for the third time!! And with a move to a larger space (the bunk I was in last night was way too short, so I didn’t sleep very well). Now I’m sharing the downstairs room with Walt.
Tomorrow I return to Shenandoah in earnest… untethered indeed!
Tom Maynard 
Leave a comment