Day 91: Franconia Ridge, and 800 miles!

Summary
Aug 16

RT 93 to Garfield Ridge Campsite

NOBO mile # 1826.9

Daily mileage 10.4

Total mileage 803.2

Last morning at The Notch. Didn’t quite finish my Cap’n Crunch, and gave the rest of my milk to Avalanche (NOBOer). Then I finished packing up to catch the 7:45 shuttle to the trail head. 

A few words about the hostel: I was a bit put off when comparing this one with Hikers Welcome. This seemed too much like a B&B, or a retreat center. There were a lot of rules. It felt like coming into someone else’s house. 

But it took no time at all to feel at home here; Justin and Serena are excellent hosts, and really care about the thru-hiking community, as do Sharon and “Bookie”, the staff. While I’ve been here they’ve done Movie Night and Taco Tuesday, there’ve been ice cream runs and a fire in the fire pit. Bookie is a past thru-hiker, so she has excellent information and advice. I highly recommend The Notch Hostel!!

Bookie was shuttle driver this morning, and she took us up to Liberty Springs trail head. Once there, she offered a fist bump or a hug. I took the hug!

Then it was off on the trail. I climbed Liberty Springs trail with Explorers as a teenager; I primarily remember an endless up on what seemed like a rockslide, then an uncomfortable night on a wooden tent platform, being afraid I would roll off, and waking in the clouds. 

Today, I discovered that it wasn’t really a rockslide, although there was no shortage of rocks. And I was climbing up into the clouds, at least for a little while. There was a small group of us from the hostel; we would leapfrog, eventually collecting at Liberty Springs Campsite. There we got some warm clothes ready for the ridge walk. I headed out a little ahead of the others, but after Kickstand, a Flip-flopper with a prosthetic leg. The rocks are really causing him problems, and it’s obvious he’s very frustrated. He asked me to pass him. 

I ended up spending most of the day hiking with Avalanche, since our paces are similar. The ridge trail climbs through the woods, eventually going above treeline, summiting Little Haystack (4780′), then staying out in the open and climbing Lincoln (5089′), and ultimately Lafayette (5260′). The weather was clearing as we climbed, first hiking in the clouds as we walked through the krumholtz, then clearing on Little Haystack, and then on the subsequent peaks as we approached them. The view was outstanding. And that’s when my phone memory ran out. I did take some shots and video with the Mokacam, but it was frustrating to lose the iPhone camera.  

My biggest fear about this section was not being able to cover the miles with the full pack. Somehow, I was able to make decent time across the ridge, and the weather was cooperating. It was extremely windy, which occasionally would knock me off balance, but not enough to be a problem. 

But as the day progressed, I became more tired, and the wind strengthened, to a point where I found it difficult to catch my breath. At this point, Avalanche and I were heading down Lafayette, headed for Mt Garfield. It was a long downhill, and included technical sections that slowed me down considerably. The Whites are full of these technical sections, both while climbing and while descending. They are incredibly wearing, and appear at any time. It’s impossible to estimate how long it will take to walk any distance on any trail. 
As I said, it was a long downhill into the saddle, and the end of the day was almost upon us. There was a last uphill slog to the top of Garfield (4500′), then a 600 ft drop to the shelter. The trail never got easier. It was a huge relief to arrive at the spur trail, collect the evening’s water, then go up to check out the camping situation. The Garfield Ridge Campsite has a caretaker, so they have formal numbered tenting sites, but nothing marked for hammocks. So I ended up setting up in the shelter, which was pretty crowded. Temperatures for the night were forecast to drop into the 30s. 

I asked the caretaker, Joe, what the hammock procedure was, and he said most, of not all, campsites with caretakers have spots picked out for hammockers; one just has to ask. That is great, but also forces me to wait until the caretaker makes an appearance to get set up. I decided to stay in the shelter. 

I am proud of the 10+ miles I managed today, but I used 110% of what I had to do it. That usually means a crash and burn day to follow; I can’t afford that tomorrow, I need to do another 10 miles…